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Q: I know that the individual sight pins are micro-adjustable, but how exactly do you adjust them individually?
A: Each pin is individually adjusted both vertically and horizontally. For vertical adjustment: There are two identical set screws located at the end of each pin. To move up & down you loosen one set screw and tighten the other. This will rotate (similar to pivoting) the pin up or down. To adjust horizontally you turn the small silver, button head allen screw at the end of the pin. This screw is spring loaded so turning clockwise will shorten the pin and turning counter-clockwise will lengthen the pin.
Q: I enjoy your articles a lot. My question is how can I figure out proper cam timing on a two-cam bow?
A: I assume the 'proper cam timing' you are asking about is the cam timing that will increase the likelihood that you will hit what you are aiming at. Or at least not miss by so much. We call this forgiveness. Proper cam timing to achieve maximum forgiveness primarily (but not exclusively) is the relationship between how this will vary from bow to bow and with different setups.

'Proper cam timing' is achieved when the draw length can be varied (within limits) and with good shot execution, the arrow will still hit where where the sight says it will hit. This is achieved by shooting 3 arrows that are overdrawn (hard against the stops) and 3 arrows that are underdrawn (not so hard against the stops) at 40 yards.

You want the cam timing that will cause the two different groups to be as close together as possible. This generally causes the top cam to break over a little bit ahead of the lower cam as the bow is brought to full draw.

We use cable adjusters to control the cam timing. This makes it very easy to manipulate cam time for optimum forgiveness. You do not have to be a super-shooter to be able to do this. Try it and let us know if you have problems.
Q: How do I determine which size pin guard to choose?
A: Basically we determine which size of pin guard to use by how fast your bow is shooting. The cut off is roughly 260, if you are shooting below this you will want to use the larger (2 3/8") pin guard because you will need more room for pin gapping; if you are shooting above this you won't need as much room for pin gapping, and should be fine with small (2")guard.
Q: What exactly is meant by a "dovetail mount" as opposed to a standard mount?
A: The dovetail mount is only available on our Hoggernaut and Hogg-it sights. With the dovetail mount you have what we call the bowmount which attaches to your riser, then the bar slides into the mount and tightens with either a set screw or a knob. If you take your sight off your bow a lot, the dovetail is more convenient. The direct mount allows your bar to attach directly to you riser.
Q: Are your pin guard measurements taken outside diameter or inside diameter?
A: Outside diameter.
Q: Why is it so important to not only set your 3rd axis adjustment on the Hogg-It sight, but also to set it at full draw?
A: Leveling your 3rd axis keeps your bow in perfect vertical alignment, giving you pinpoint accuracy when shooting on all different terrain. Leveling your sight in a vise or on a 3rd axis leveling jig might get you pie plate accuracy, but for true pinpoint accuracy the leveling has to be done at full draw. Leveling at full draw takes into account the torque of the bow, which is important. We have taken a sight that has been 3rd axis leveled using a vice or jig, put it on the bow and with our shooting machine the Hooter Shooter can show 2 - 4" discrepancies on a 40 yard uphill shot. Then we leveled the sight, at full draw, and got no discrepancies on an identical shot. 3rd axis leveling, at full draw, is a detail that is often overlooked when setting up a bow. But is obviously important when asking for perfect results on a perfect shot.
Q: What are the advantages of the Spot-Hogg Cable Adjusters on both a double and single cam bow?
A: The advantage of the Cable Adjusters is they allow you to micro-adjust your timing, wheel lean, minimize limb torque, and increase cam-bearing life. Before Cable Adjusters you had to twist your cables to adjust timing and wheel lean. But, what happens is half a twist one way is not far enough and half a twist the other and your too far. They also allow you to adjust timing without a bow press which saves a tremendous amount of time. A single cam is different because the timing is set by the manufacturer and there is no split harness on the cam, this makes the Cable Adjusters effective only on the top idler wheel. This will help you straighten out any lean and give you a little adjustment on your power cable, which should help with micro adjusting draw length and cam orientation.
Q: Can I use a d-loop/string loop with my Cascade release?
A: Yes, both the model 8 and 10 work GREAT with a d-loop/string loop. We recommend shooting the Cascade directly from the rotor, not using the string that comes attached to the release. However, shooting this way will apply more pressure to your index finger, and shorten your draw length. You should find you have great results shooting this way.